2014-08-19%2016.08.36-1280.jpg

Pack right after it came off of the truck. (Yes, I bolted some wheels to it)

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85 kWh “D” Pack

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Plastic cover which I later discover has the pack main fuse under it.

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Label on the center of the pack.

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Top view of the high voltage connector

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Pack after removing the plastic cover which what appears to be some type of fireproofing material under it (between the plastic and pack).
The two dents were where some hooks on chains were when the pack was being lowered to the ground by the transport truck. The actual modules are further down under this piece and not affected.

2014-08-19%2017.53.16-1280.jpg

Removed all screws from the top of the pack and starting to peel away the top cover. The thing is held on with so much adhesive/sealant that it took us nearly 40 minutes to get to this point.

2014-08-19%2018.05.12-1280.jpg

Making progress opening the pack, first couple of modules now visible. I popped a few of the orange HV caps from the one module because I was anxious to get an idea of the pack voltage and module voltage since the pack had been sitting for a while.

2014-08-19%2018.05.19-1280.jpg

Top view of the one module.

2014-08-19%2018.09.40-1280.jpg

Put a volt meter on the hot side of the main contactors to read the full pack voltage. 313.8V. So, not toast but definitely dead. (No comments about my cavalier method for testing this please, I know what I’m doing… most of the time)

2014-08-19%2018.10.06-1280.jpg

Module voltage.

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Close up of the pack’s main fuse.

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Got the security screws out of the front portion of the pack and removed the metal cover finally, revealing the two front modules which are stacked.

2014-08-19%2018.52.57-1280.jpg

View of the front two modules showing the coolant loop quick disconnects. Those are spring loaded and the coolant actually seems to be under pressure. I may work on a way to connect to that to hook up a small radiator and pump later.

2014-08-19%2019.10.42-1280.jpg

Pack with the entire top cover removed safely, over 2 hours after starting. (Yes, I bolted some wheels to the sides of the pack, and they work…)

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Close up of some of the cell level fusing. Awesome safety feature here.

2014-08-19%2019.12.53-1280.jpg

Another shot of the coolant loop connections and front modules.

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View of most of the pack.

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Main contactors. One is for positive and one is for negative. They are connected with bus bars to the pack and to the external connector. There are also small leads (visible on the top) from both sides of the contactors that go to what I would call the main BMS board.

2014-08-19%2019.36.20-1280.jpg

View of part of the high voltage bus bars.

2014-08-19%2019.36.40-1280.jpg

External low voltage connectors, presumable for BMS communication and pack control.

2014-08-19%2019.37.00-1280.jpg

Close up view of the external HV connector showing part of the actual connection that makes contact with the large male blade connector on the car. This configuration would likely have very low resistance since it would make uniform contact across the entire connection.

Update #1:

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Close up of some more cells showing the cell level fuses and the inversion of the next group of cells.

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Pack’s main fuse, removed.

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One of the pack’s contactors. This one is for the negative terminal. The other is for the positive terminal (not shown) and is a different part number.

2014-08-29%2017.55.33-1280.jpg

Bottom of the negative contactor showing manufacture as “Tyco Electronics.”

2014-08-29%2017.57.09-1280.jpg

Tesla’s part number label for the negative side contactor.

Update #2:
Tesla%20BMS%20Module%20-%20Front-1280.jpg

Front of BMS Module board (one of these on each of the 16 modules)

Tesla%20BMS%20Module%20-%20Back-1280.jpg

Back of the BMS Module board

Source- Tesla motor club
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